Safe drinking water in just 3 steps
Purifying a private water supply such as a well, borehole, river or spring for a home is usually a multi-stage process, because it depends on geology, nearby farming or industry, septic systems and ground water. Most contaminants are invisible and tasteless, so never assume that clear-looking water is safe to drink.

Step 1 - Testing
Before installing a water purification system, get a certified laboratory to test your water. UKAS-accredited testing for private water supplies (boreholes, wells, springs) ensures compliance with UK safety regulations and will help you identify which pre-filters you might need. Accredited labs typically test over 30 parameters including:
- Bacteria
- Nitrates/nitrite
- Heavy Metals (lead, arsenic, iron, manganese)
- Hardness
- pH
- Pesticides or industrial chemicals
You can find a list of labs approved by the Drinking Water Inspectorate (DWI) here. You should retest your water once a year to check that nothing new has been introduced.

Step 2 – Pre-Filters
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Use an initial sediment filter
Installing a ‘base layer’ sediment filter, at the point where the water enters your house will remove the most obvious contaminants such as sand, silt, rust, dirt and organic matter. It will protect your pipes from clogging and protect the next level of filters. -
Add an Activated Carbon Filter
Activated carbon will remove - or reduce to safe levels – pesticides, organic chemicals, and some heavy metals. It will also improve the palatability of the water, removing bad tastes and odours. -
If necessary, add a targeted filter to remove any specific contaminants identified in your water tests
This could be to remove specific chemicals or heavy metals, or to soften very hard water to prevent limescale build up
Every pre-filter you add in will reduce the water flow so don’t be tempted to skip the testing and filter for everything; you’ll just spend a lot of money and wait ages to fill a glass of water.

Step 3 – Install a microbiological filter
Add a final purifying filter to remove harmful microbiological contaminants such as bacteria, viruses and parasites. This final, and most important step is the one that creates safe drinking water. There are several methods you can use to do this:
- UV Sterilization – the most common in-home solution, but relies on a power supply. The bulbs need changing at least once a year. It is also essential that an effective sediment filter is installed, as particles in the water will throw shadows that protect microbiological contaminants from the UV light source. Fouling or biofilm build up will also leave UV useless to protect your water supply. Thorough routine maintenance is imperative as there is no way of knowing when you are not being protected
- Reverse Osmosis (RO) – the most expensive option, RO purification requires pre-filters, a power supply and generates 2-3 litres of wastewater for every drinkable litre produced. It also removes EVERYTHING from water – including valuable minerals, which may need to be added back in for your long-term health and for taste aesthetics
- Ultrafiltration (UF) – the best eco purification core, requiring no power or chemicals and very little maintenance. UF filters also remove microplastics, sediment, sand etc., although the filter cartridge will last longer if that is removed by a pre-filter. The FailSafe element means you’ll never accidentally drink contaminated water – water can’t flow through once the filter reaches end of life
We've put together the pros and cons of all three methods in a table format to help you compare them.
LifeSaver C1 Off Grid Water Purifier
The LifeSaver C1 works with patented Ultrafiltration technology, using pressure to push water through the microscopic pores in the filter membranes. It removes almost everything suspended in water, from the tiniest viruses and microplastics to larger bacteria, organic matter and sediment particles. A single filter can purify up to 500,000 litres with little maintenance, and it’s quick and easy to install. We recommend routine cleaning once every 12 months, but otherwise it requires no maintenance and will last a family of four for years.
A sediment pre-filter isn’t essential for the C1, but it will maximise the life of the filter cartridge, and if your water tastes funky, an activated carbon pre-filter will fix that – but you don’t need one if you’re happy with the taste. If your water test reveals levels of chemicals or heavy metals that long-term exposure could cause harm, then you’ll need to add a suitable filter to reduce that. Sediment and carbon filters don’t cost very much but you’ll need to change the filter cartridges more often.
If you’d like to know more about the C1 visit our website page or get in touch here.